Visualizza la versione completa : Montaggio losi 3.0 by casey peck
Ho chiesto al pilota TLR Casey Peck di poter riportare il reportage del montaggio della 3.0 che ha postato su RcTech sul nostro forum, ha acconsentito!
Grazie Casey! TNKS!:eusa_clap:
Hello TLR fans. I will be posting my pro build up of the 3.0 and will be focusing on the tips that I have come up with over the years as well as keying in on the cool hop up parts that come standard with the TLR 3.0
Some of the more self explanitory build stuff will be breezed over but this should help you guys with a bullet proof 3.0 nitro buggy build up.
Hope you enjoy
I will start with a clean work surface and some of my favorite hand tools
1. 3/32 ball end
2. 5/64 allen driver
3. 1/16 allen driver
4. .050 allen driver
5. 3/32 and 5/64 speed tip for drill
6. Small battery drill
7. 1/4" nut driver
8. 3/16" nut driver (not shown)
9. Exacto knife (not shown)
10. TLR camber wrench
11. Black Sharpie
12. Red and Blue loctite
13. Blue rags
14. Some kind of nitro spray / motor spray
15. Digital callipers
16. Smooth jaw needle nose (not pictured)
17. And finnaly some sharp scissors. I prefer to cut kit bags open instead of ripping and pulling. This way no small parts get lost or missed
http://imageshack.us/a/img694/1750/66448202.jpg
First up is the steering link build up. Notice the shiney side of the rod end on the top one. (The lower one is displaying the matte finish and is the wrong side to pop from) This is the side you will want to pop the ball into. it will yeild the best / smoothest swivel action.
http://imageshack.us/a/img15/126/45480725.jpg
I use a a flat tooth set of needle nose to pop all of the ball in to the rod ends. This flat jaw style will not marr the aluminum or steel ball. Do this to both rod ends
http://imageshack.us/a/img811/4131/73725286.jpg
Now with your 5/64 allen screw the threaded link into the rod end until it just starts to bottom out.
http://imageshack.us/a/img9/6030/63970260.jpg
For the other side I will start the end in by hand and then insert the 5/64 allen into the ball to thread the rod on the rest of the way. (extreme force on the end with your fingers will eventually wear you out so I like to do things the easiet way http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif )
http://imageshack.us/a/img541/4917/65101461.jpg
now on to the steering rack and posts.
Install both steering posts. I do not use loctite on these since I take the whole front clip off for maintenance. Since its off every week or so and retightened it would be a pain to deal with loctite. It's up to you on this one but I have never had one come loose in long mains so I continue to do it this way.
http://imageshack.us/a/img831/3847/40785634g.jpg
Then the bearing go into the left side bellcrank and on to the saver assembly.
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/230/83673610.jpg
This very straight forward except for the loctite on the aluminum saver tube. I prefer a big dab of red loctite and twist it around to spread it on my finger. This ensures a good coverage in the threads and not too much to get everywhere.
http://imageshack.us/a/img855/4572/62290570.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img838/1503/34597050.jpg
I chose to build mine with an aluminum upper saver peice but it will require a little grinding to clear the new larger steering rack with the big bearings. The stock plastic one shown here has a relief in the side to clear the the rack
http://imageshack.us/a/img838/1503/34597050.jpg
For proper saver tention (my preference) is to screw the assembly together until the nut is flush with the tube and make a mark with a black sharpie. I will then tighten it a full turn. ( to be a little easier on your servo you can go with a half turn)
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/5030/34130887.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img834/2880/18716803.jpg
now for the cool new steering rack. you will want to press the bearing in (flange side down) with those same needle nose you then use the new rack screw to hold the rack bearing down. If you accidently install the bearing flange up it will bind up when you tighten the rack all the way down.
http://imageshack.us/a/img15/4605/80404490.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img16/8229/41467408.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img541/4153/71496114.jpg
saver side installed notice the gringing on the aluminum top peice to clear the new bearing. NOTE a new aluminum top will be adjusted so as not to require any modifing but I used what I had. Again if you use the stock plastic which is plenty stong you will not have to do any modifying.
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/4864/66397638.jpg
now to install the steering link. Anytime I need to get loctite into a threaded surface I prefer to dab a small amount on the tip of a small allen (.050 here) to control how much actually gets put on and where. You do not want a excess amount of loctite to spill out when you thread the parts together. This will freeze up rotating parts and is just messy.
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/1829/35847254.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/416/49447493.jpg
I then install the steering link with the button head screw and install a mini lock nut on the bottom side. Note this may have been easier done before you install the completed rack on to the steering posts.
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/7601/34148586.jpg
Now install the tank posts and front chassis brace. I use a 1/16 alle to push the lock nuts in to bottom the brace and those same needle nose on the other two.
http://imageshack.us/a/img534/8421/72450570.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img593/9527/56846946.jpg
Next is the plastic top plate that holds the bellcranks in place
This one is up to you but I prefer the IFMAR fuel 90 degree fitting on my tanks. To do this you will want to push or pull the internal fuel line to sit just against the back wall of the tank. This will make sure all fuel is drawn out of the lowest portion of the tank.
http://imageshack.us/a/img839/5676/60700886.jpg
then leave roughly 1/4" of fuel line from the outside of tank and cut the excess off.
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/8919/94973705v.jpg
Now push the fitting long end first into the tank line. (A little motor spray in the tube or on the fitting will make this step easier)
http://imageshack.us/a/img402/9899/84512409.jpg
I like to push the tank down onto the mounts and then hold the chassis on its side and screw the mounting screws (with washers) sideways to not drop the screw.
http://imageshack.us/a/img585/4098/31613930.jpg
Bag A completed
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/6952/98886664.jpg
Here's a look at the goodies included in the kit and for the next step. New coated hinge pins that seem to be a spring steel type of metal as well as the ti king pins. I always ran the adjustable captured front hingepin braces so its nice that they are now included in the kit.
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/6219/27903757.jpg
The new 15 deg plastic non inclined caster blocks and spindles are redisigned to maximize steering throw with more clearance for the wheel
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/4043/30285870.jpg
On to the driveshafts these go together the same as all the others just pay attention to the legnth of axle pin. Don't get the diff pins confused for the axle pins. The axle pin will be just long enough to fit flush in the axle.
After installing the bearings into the spindle and the completed axle / driveshaft into the bearings add the wheel hex's. Then the large pin and the set screw. I like to spray motor spray on a rag and thread the set screw to remove any shipping oil. This will make the locktite stick better. Notice the junk that came off after on the rag. Do this to all hardware that needs loctite.
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/9215/61135722.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/6231/26489006.jpg
**A reminder to dab the loctite on to the set screw and twist it onto your finger to spread it evenly and get rid of excess
Now use your wheel wrench to hold the hex and install the set screw
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/323/77116797.jpg
finish the spindle / caster block assembly with the new kingpins. Don't forget to install the small set screws that hold the pins in
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/9176/17237552.jpg
On to the diff's. Cut an angle on the included TLR black grease tube. Twist the included light weight outdrive and add the black greese to the greese grove. I then twist it against my finger to remove any excess.
Now install the flanged diff bearing onto the diff case and the prepared outdrive. Once inserted add the small red o-ring to the outdrive shaft.
I like to use a 1/4" nut driver to drive the o-ring into the slot.
Now install the outdrive pin. I use an old pair of surgical hemostat's
Then drop the flat spider gear on to the pin / outdrive. Now add the small gears to the diff pins and add some diff oil to help hold them together.
This way you can pick the whole thing up without the gears falling off. (when they are clean and shiney they do not always want to stay together)
Now add the diff fluid since this is front one it is 5K
Here is the trick that I picked up from Yannik when he ran for us.
Add the flat spider gear to the assembly and the excess diff oil will rise to the top. You can then run a flat edge across the diff case top to remove the excess. This will make sure the diff is perfectly filled every time.
http://imageshack.us/a/img266/4153/32214858.jpg
Now the gasket and ring gear. Use the same steps to installing the bearing and outdrive to the ring gear. Don't forget the greese on the ring gear.
http://imageshack.us/a/img855/7246/60822900.jpg
Now its just 4 diff case screws and its complete.
http://imageshack.us/a/img801/2243/90350757.jpg
On to the gearbox / pinion gear install.
Since the 3.0 uses center dog bones the gearbox gets an outdrive instead of the standard cvd driveshaft. This builds just like the old stuff. Install the bearings indo the gearbox and insert the pinion gear. Hold the pinion gear in with presure as you add the out drive. Don't forget to prep the set screw just like we did in the previous steps(with the motorspray / rag and red loctite)
Next insert the completed front diff into the gearbox. I add three small dabs of black greese to the ring gear.
Notice the buttonhead 540 screw on the bottom of the gearbox. The kit comes with caphead 540 screws but I prefer to switch these out with the buttonhead so the same size wrench is used for all of the screws.
Grandissimo Nio, montare la 3.0 sarà entusiasmante ma farlo attraverso Peck è roba di un altro pianeta!!! :tunz6rh:Appena arriva subito al lavoro!!!
The new 3.0 arm is changed from the 2.0 in the way the droop screws work and are narrowed up on the back side to maximize steering throw and wheel clearance.
Notice the difference in the 2.0 arm when layed over the 3.0 arm
Add the shocktower and hingepin mounts. The kit calls for number 1 plastic inserts up in the front and number one inserts down in the rear. This is for max kick up. For a smoother flat track you might want to use the zeros that come in the extras portion of the kit.
All thats left for the front clip is the sway bar and turnbuckles.
My turnbuckle tricks should help the stress on your hands. I first pop the balls into each of the rod ends. Remember to pop them into the shiney side of the rod end first. (check back to the first few steps for the shiney step)
I always run my turnbuckles with the left handed thread to the inside. Which ever you decide just be cognizant of the mark on the turnbuckles so they all face the same way.
After the rod ends are prepared start the first one onto the turnbuckle a few threads and then use a 5/64 wrench to speed up the process.
Notice the extra adjustments on the tower. Gone are the 2 holes and pesky half moon adjustment inserts on the caster block which is now one single mounting hole. Also the 4mm turnbuckles and rod ends are replaced by the beefy 5mm that the 1.0 first came with.
Front clip and bag B complete
Now on to the center diff. Here is a look at the upgrades and updated parts in the 3.0 kit. Notice the rear brake disk is turned down so there is no break-in process anymore with the disks. Also the kit now comes with those small brake pad springs to keep the pads from dragging when your brake gap gets larger than it should be
I build up the center diff the same as I build the other two diff's (see earlier steps for a reminder if needed) Notice the rear disk is turned down
I always set my brake gap between .40mm and .50 mm this one I set at .50. So measure the brake disk...
Then adjust each pad gap to that .50mm gap
The completed center diff assembly. You should be able to hold the diff case and spin each diff mount around the brake disk with out any dragging. I always check this before I mount it in to the car.
For the brake linkage I always run the brake rod in and out of the mounts to pre-brake them in. Otherwise brake bias adjustment will be a pain for quite some time.
Bag C complete
The 3.0 uses a new droop screw system. This time it uses a large buttonhead screw that will resist digging into the aluminum chassis and changing the droop setting. It installins into the bottom side of the arm with a 3mm hex and then is adjustable from the top side (like previous models) with a 5/65 or 2mm hex driver. The arm has been modified to accept this large buttonhead.
Here is another one of the things I have come up with throughout the years. I like to drill through the wing mount and nut with a 1/16 drill bit. This allows you to use a longer screw and the extra plastic to thread into will help lock the bolt in.
Again the 3.0 brings back the 5mm turnbuckles and rod ends. Don't forget to pop the balls into the rod end shiney end first.
After starting the rod end onto the turnbuckle use the included camber wrench (or the TLR one) and a 1/16 allen for added leverage to thread the rod on the rest of the way do this for each side. (A 5/64 wrench will fit into the non threaded ball)
Now to the rear diff. I again build this one the same as the other two. But this one will need some special attention on the shimming. Another added upgrade to the 3.0 are the aluminum bearing inserts.
For shimming I added .34 mm to the ring gear side and .74mm to the other side.
http://imageshack.us/a/img820/5219/38447022.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/6070/27623784.jpg
Add 3 dabs of black greese and install into the gear box.
After the rear of the gearbox in installed and all 4 screws tightened you will want to re check the ring / pinion mesh. To do this I hold the completed gearbox with a finger on each outdrive. The with the other hand grab the input shaft and rock back and forth paying attention to how much input movement is required before the outdrives move. This should be a tight as possible with out binding. On a new set of gears there will usually be one high tight spot. Due to manufacturing tolerances and plastic curing at different rates I would recommend you start with the shimming I used but check and re-adjust as necessary. After a few tanks recheck to see if it has loosened up and re-shim if needed.
This is probably does not need any commentary but to install the lock nuts into the rear brace you can slide one over a 1/16 allen and push the nut into the plastic brace to ease the process. Other than that the shock tower install is pretty self explanitory.
Install the hubs with all the spacers in front of the hub to start with and install the hinge pin. I use red loctite on one side and blue on the other. This way one is locked on and one can be removed for wheelbase adjustments. the kit comes with the silver steel nuts but I am using Black aluminum TLR nuts where possible.
Install camberlinks with a small amount of blue loctite at each end
Bag D complete
Notice the new matte finish on the stone guards.
have skipped to the F bag and will do shocks next.
On to the radio tray and linkage set up. Choose the non RTR hex insert for the aluminum post
Add blue loctite to both ends of the post and install the post into the tray with the included button head 5/40 screw. Don't forget the washer like I did
Now on to the aluminum servo brace, I add a dot of red loctite to each of the threaded holes. This is not a regular maintenance item so red is on the menu here. Depending upon your servo choice you may need the longer included 4/40 screws.
My Spektrum 6090's are fairly low profile and do not require more than the standard plastic spacer. (which is no more than the height of the aluminum brace) I like mine just high enough to clear the chassis even under any chassis flex. (notice there is roughly 3mm of post lower than the bottom of the servo, this is good clearance)
Servos contacting the chassis under high stress is a cause of servo death.
And since they are mounted way out on the chassis I prefer them to be mounted as low as possible. Any thing higher will add un-needed chassis roll.
If you so choose you can use the aluminum servo arm for the 22 buggy on the throttle. I always run mine like this it fits perfect on the 3.0 tray looks nice and does away with the servo inserts. I also like red loctite on the ball stud for the throttle linkage. Red will keep the stud in place without having to overtighten the ball stub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BALL STUD. I have broken more than one. That is a black 4/40 mini nut from AVID rc to match my black theme http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif
I add a touch of CA to hold the servo leads out of the way of the driveshaft but is not necessary if you can get the leads to stay tucked up tight to the box. I also add a dot of it on the first lead to hold the second one. Also notice how much shorter the screws for the steering servo need to be.(servo closest to the center diff) If they are too long they will contact the center driveshaft
http://imageshack.us/a/img189/1992/65530516.jpg
As you can see there is plenty of room for a rx and transponder in the radio box.
For the steel thread insert on in the battery box I like to add a dab of CA to keep in place until the battery is installed. While holding the box upside down I use the 5/64 allen to insert threaded t-nut into the box.
All that is left is the final linkage install. By putting extra preload on the throttle side you can hold it from the carb side to get the linkage post in place for the screw.
And on to the brake side
Make sure to center servos with the radio zero'd out and steering centered. Also make sure to set the throttle pivot arm so that the alignment marks on the tray line up with the alignment marks on the arm
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/2203/16257493.jpg
And bag F complete
Ecco quello che aspettavo di vedere da tempo!! Spettacolo!
On to the awesome new shocks.
http://imageshack.us/a/img507/6555/101is.jpg
pop the pivot balls into the shockend, shiney side first like the rest of the build
http://imageshack.us/a/img819/9506/102cvz.jpg
Don't skip this step..... Like I do with any set screw prepare the shock shaft piston screw for red loctite.
spray motor spray on a rag and thread each screw into the rag to remove the shipping oil from the treads.
Then take a dab of red loctite on your .050 allen and insert into each shock shaft.
http://imageshack.us/a/img145/5647/103iv.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img507/1199/104uh.jpg
Choose the split 4 hole 1.2 4 hole / 1.3 for the longer rear shafts and the 1.3 for the front shafts. I use those same flat jaw needle noose pliers to hold the shaft for piston installation.
!!!DONT FORGET THE SMALL WASHERS ON EACH SIDE OF THE PISTON LIKE I DID!!!
http://imageshack.us/a/img202/4139/105my.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img16/3454/106fr.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img594/1276/107tn.jpg
Install the outter oring for the lower shock cap and then the shock orings spacers like shown. Pay attention to the bottom spacer orientation. This one puts the correct amount of seal preload and centers in the shock cap
http://imageshack.us/a/img268/8548/108wu.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/8483/109mj.jpg
I prefer a dab of shock oil on the threads to install the shaft into the shock body
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9508/110se.jpg
Unlike the shocks of the current 8 line up. The new heavy duty bladder gets installed into the cap first. A little too much motor spray on my hands http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif
http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6013/111xj.jpg
Since I needed both hands for the proper shock build I did not take any pics of these steps. Fill the shock body with the proper oil abour 3/4 full. Then slowly push the shaft up to the oil height (but not higher) to push the air bubbles out. Then fill to the top and add the shock cap. I like to hold the shock closer to horizontal and crack the cap open while pushing the shaft all the way up. Then tighten the shock with the kit included shock tools. Install the shock end holding the shaft just above the threads with your prefered shock pliers and screw them on all the way.
Now install the shock boots. A small spray of motor spray will ease the boot install. Now add springs and spring cup.
These things are buttery smooth. The new spacer and seal set / shaft material really keeps things operating smoothly and where they should be.
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1663/113al.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img600/1492/114gqc.jpg
That same 1/4' nut driver that I use to set the diff orins in the diff case is perfect to drive the upper shock bushing onto the shock mount (which is now longer than the current ones) It fits right over the small end and against the larger diameter lip on the foreward side of the bushing.
http://imageshack.us/a/img62/3615/115hu.jpg
When installing the shocks be sure to use the black reverse thread shock screw on the driver side rear and passenger side front. But don't forget that they are reverse. These do not need to be tightened more than just touching since they will not back there way out. Also pay attention to the slot in the spring cup. When installed correctly it will be facing out. This way the cup will hit the arm first if it gets knocked off by an bad impact.
http://imageshack.us/a/img203/8223/116oj.jpg
Ragazzi avete notato che non mettono la rondellina tra oring e pin nei bicchierini del differenziale??
effettivamente questa si consuma dopo qualche litro fino a far impuntare il diff
voi come vi comportate?
Ragazzi avete notato che non mettono la rondellina tra oring e pin nei bicchierini del differenziale??
effettivamente questa si consuma dopo qualche litro fino a far impuntare il diff
voi come vi comportate?
Meglio se metti lo spessore: c'è minor gioco sul bicchierino e minor possibilità che l'oring si strappi. La durata dello spessore è adeguata alla frequenza standard che si aprono i differenziali la macchina in realtà ha due valide configurazioni, una è lo stock e l'altra è il centrale più basso, inutile stravolgerla, l'hanno già fatto in California e non ha dato grandi risultati :) ...Matias è l'unico che gira con l'ant alto .
parlo della 2.0eu
nelle ultime gare fatte la rondella si consumava praticamente tra il sabato e la domenica di gara
ma forse era dovuto al fatto che la macchina era abbastanza vecchiotta
inoltre lo notavo sopratutto sul centrale!!
per la 3.0 nulla da dire, mi trovo veramente benissimo anzi finanze permettendo vorrei prendere l'elettrica appena esce! :)
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