Montaggio losi 3.0 by casey peck

[NIOREVO]

The new 3.0 arm is changed from the 2.0 in the way the droop screws work and are narrowed up on the back side to maximize steering throw and wheel clearance.

Notice the difference in the 2.0 arm when layed over the 3.0 arm

Add the shocktower and hingepin mounts. The kit calls for number 1 plastic inserts up in the front and number one inserts down in the rear. This is for max kick up. For a smoother flat track you might want to use the zeros that come in the extras portion of the kit.

All thats left for the front clip is the sway bar and turnbuckles.

My turnbuckle tricks should help the stress on your hands. I first pop the balls into each of the rod ends. Remember to pop them into the shiney side of the rod end first. (check back to the first few steps for the shiney step)

I always run my turnbuckles with the left handed thread to the inside. Which ever you decide just be cognizant of the mark on the turnbuckles so they all face the same way.
After the rod ends are prepared start the first one onto the turnbuckle a few threads and then use a 5/64 wrench to speed up the process.

Notice the extra adjustments on the tower. Gone are the 2 holes and pesky half moon adjustment inserts on the caster block which is now one single mounting hole. Also the 4mm turnbuckles and rod ends are replaced by the beefy 5mm that the 1.0 first came with.

Front clip and bag B complete

[NIOREVO]

Now on to the center diff. Here is a look at the upgrades and updated parts in the 3.0 kit. Notice the rear brake disk is turned down so there is no break-in process anymore with the disks. Also the kit now comes with those small brake pad springs to keep the pads from dragging when your brake gap gets larger than it should be

I build up the center diff the same as I build the other two diff's (see earlier steps for a reminder if needed) Notice the rear disk is turned down

I always set my brake gap between .40mm and .50 mm this one I set at .50. So measure the brake disk...

Then adjust each pad gap to that .50mm gap

The completed center diff assembly. You should be able to hold the diff case and spin each diff mount around the brake disk with out any dragging. I always check this before I mount it in to the car.

For the brake linkage I always run the brake rod in and out of the mounts to pre-brake them in. Otherwise brake bias adjustment will be a pain for quite some time.

Bag C complete

[NIOREVO]

The 3.0 uses a new droop screw system. This time it uses a large buttonhead screw that will resist digging into the aluminum chassis and changing the droop setting. It installins into the bottom side of the arm with a 3mm hex and then is adjustable from the top side (like previous models) with a 5/65 or 2mm hex driver. The arm has been modified to accept this large buttonhead.

Here is another one of the things I have come up with throughout the years. I like to drill through the wing mount and nut with a 1/16 drill bit. This allows you to use a longer screw and the extra plastic to thread into will help lock the bolt in.

Again the 3.0 brings back the 5mm turnbuckles and rod ends. Don't forget to pop the balls into the rod end shiney end first.

After starting the rod end onto the turnbuckle use the included camber wrench (or the TLR one) and a 1/16 allen for added leverage to thread the rod on the rest of the way do this for each side. (A 5/64 wrench will fit into the non threaded ball)

Now to the rear diff. I again build this one the same as the other two. But this one will need some special attention on the shimming. Another added upgrade to the 3.0 are the aluminum bearing inserts.

For shimming I added .34 mm to the ring gear side and .74mm to the other side.






Add 3 dabs of black greese and install into the gear box.

After the rear of the gearbox in installed and all 4 screws tightened you will want to re check the ring / pinion mesh. To do this I hold the completed gearbox with a finger on each outdrive. The with the other hand grab the input shaft and rock back and forth paying attention to how much input movement is required before the outdrives move. This should be a tight as possible with out binding. On a new set of gears there will usually be one high tight spot. Due to manufacturing tolerances and plastic curing at different rates I would recommend you start with the shimming I used but check and re-adjust as necessary. After a few tanks recheck to see if it has loosened up and re-shim if needed.

This is probably does not need any commentary but to install the lock nuts into the rear brace you can slide one over a 1/16 allen and push the nut into the plastic brace to ease the process. Other than that the shock tower install is pretty self explanitory.

Install the hubs with all the spacers in front of the hub to start with and install the hinge pin. I use red loctite on one side and blue on the other. This way one is locked on and one can be removed for wheelbase adjustments. the kit comes with the silver steel nuts but I am using Black aluminum TLR nuts where possible.

Install camberlinks with a small amount of blue loctite at each end

Bag D complete

[NIOREVO]

Notice the new matte finish on the stone guards.

have skipped to the F bag and will do shocks next.

On to the radio tray and linkage set up. Choose the non RTR hex insert for the aluminum post

Add blue loctite to both ends of the post and install the post into the tray with the included button head 5/40 screw. Don't forget the washer like I did

Now on to the aluminum servo brace, I add a dot of red loctite to each of the threaded holes. This is not a regular maintenance item so red is on the menu here. Depending upon your servo choice you may need the longer included 4/40 screws.
My Spektrum 6090's are fairly low profile and do not require more than the standard plastic spacer. (which is no more than the height of the aluminum brace) I like mine just high enough to clear the chassis even under any chassis flex. (notice there is roughly 3mm of post lower than the bottom of the servo, this is good clearance)
Servos contacting the chassis under high stress is a cause of servo death.
And since they are mounted way out on the chassis I prefer them to be mounted as low as possible. Any thing higher will add un-needed chassis roll.

If you so choose you can use the aluminum servo arm for the 22 buggy on the throttle. I always run mine like this it fits perfect on the 3.0 tray looks nice and does away with the servo inserts. I also like red loctite on the ball stud for the throttle linkage. Red will keep the stud in place without having to overtighten the ball stub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BALL STUD. I have broken more than one. That is a black 4/40 mini nut from AVID rc to match my black theme

I add a touch of CA to hold the servo leads out of the way of the driveshaft but is not necessary if you can get the leads to stay tucked up tight to the box. I also add a dot of it on the first lead to hold the second one. Also notice how much shorter the screws for the steering servo need to be.(servo closest to the center diff) If they are too long they will contact the center driveshaft




As you can see there is plenty of room for a rx and transponder in the radio box.

For the steel thread insert on in the battery box I like to add a dab of CA to keep in place until the battery is installed. While holding the box upside down I use the 5/64 allen to insert threaded t-nut into the box.

All that is left is the final linkage install. By putting extra preload on the throttle side you can hold it from the carb side to get the linkage post in place for the screw.

And on to the brake side

Make sure to center servos with the radio zero'd out and steering centered. Also make sure to set the throttle pivot arm so that the alignment marks on the tray line up with the alignment marks on the arm




And bag F complete

[NIOREVO]

Ecco quello che aspettavo di vedere da tempo!! Spettacolo!



On to the awesome new shocks.



pop the pivot balls into the shockend, shiney side first like the rest of the build



Don't skip this step..... Like I do with any set screw prepare the shock shaft piston screw for red loctite.
spray motor spray on a rag and thread each screw into the rag to remove the shipping oil from the treads.
Then take a dab of red loctite on your .050 allen and insert into each shock shaft.





Choose the split 4 hole 1.2 4 hole / 1.3 for the longer rear shafts and the 1.3 for the front shafts. I use those same flat jaw needle noose pliers to hold the shaft for piston installation.
!!!DONT FORGET THE SMALL WASHERS ON EACH SIDE OF THE PISTON LIKE I DID!!!







Install the outter oring for the lower shock cap and then the shock orings spacers like shown. Pay attention to the bottom spacer orientation. This one puts the correct amount of seal preload and centers in the shock cap





I prefer a dab of shock oil on the threads to install the shaft into the shock body



Unlike the shocks of the current 8 line up. The new heavy duty bladder gets installed into the cap first. A little too much motor spray on my hands





Since I needed both hands for the proper shock build I did not take any pics of these steps. Fill the shock body with the proper oil abour 3/4 full. Then slowly push the shaft up to the oil height (but not higher) to push the air bubbles out. Then fill to the top and add the shock cap. I like to hold the shock closer to horizontal and crack the cap open while pushing the shaft all the way up. Then tighten the shock with the kit included shock tools. Install the shock end holding the shaft just above the threads with your prefered shock pliers and screw them on all the way.
Now install the shock boots. A small spray of motor spray will ease the boot install. Now add springs and spring cup.
These things are buttery smooth. The new spacer and seal set / shaft material really keeps things operating smoothly and where they should be.





That same 1/4' nut driver that I use to set the diff orins in the diff case is perfect to drive the upper shock bushing onto the shock mount (which is now longer than the current ones) It fits right over the small end and against the larger diameter lip on the foreward side of the bushing.



When installing the shocks be sure to use the black reverse thread shock screw on the driver side rear and passenger side front. But don't forget that they are reverse. These do not need to be tightened more than just touching since they will not back there way out. Also pay attention to the slot in the spring cup. When installed correctly it will be facing out. This way the cup will hit the arm first if it gets knocked off by an bad impact.

[Gio89]

Ragazzi avete notato che non mettono la rondellina tra oring e pin nei bicchierini del differenziale??

effettivamente questa si consuma dopo qualche litro fino a far impuntare il diff

voi come vi comportate?

[Bestia]

Originariamente inviata da Gio89

Ragazzi avete notato che non mettono la rondellina tra oring e pin nei bicchierini del differenziale??

effettivamente questa si consuma dopo qualche litro fino a far impuntare il diff

voi come vi comportate?

Meglio se metti lo spessore: c'è minor gioco sul bicchierino e minor possibilità che l'oring si strappi. La durata dello spessore è adeguata alla frequenza standard che si aprono i differenziali la macchina in realtà ha due valide configurazioni, una è lo stock e l'altra è il centrale più basso, inutile stravolgerla, l'hanno già fatto in California e non ha dato grandi risultati ...Matias è l'unico che gira con l'ant alto .

[Gio89]

parlo della 2.0eu
nelle ultime gare fatte la rondella si consumava praticamente tra il sabato e la domenica di gara
ma forse era dovuto al fatto che la macchina era abbastanza vecchiotta

inoltre lo notavo sopratutto sul centrale!!

per la 3.0 nulla da dire, mi trovo veramente benissimo anzi finanze permettendo vorrei prendere l'elettrica appena esce!