The 3.0 uses a new droop screw system. This time it uses a large buttonhead screw that will resist digging into the aluminum chassis and changing the droop setting. It installins into the bottom side of the arm with a 3mm hex and then is adjustable from the top side (like previous models) with a 5/65 or 2mm hex driver. The arm has been modified to accept this large buttonhead.
Here is another one of the things I have come up with throughout the years. I like to drill through the wing mount and nut with a 1/16 drill bit. This allows you to use a longer screw and the extra plastic to thread into will help lock the bolt in.
Again the 3.0 brings back the 5mm turnbuckles and rod ends. Don't forget to pop the balls into the rod end shiney end first.
After starting the rod end onto the turnbuckle use the included camber wrench (or the TLR one) and a 1/16 allen for added leverage to thread the rod on the rest of the way do this for each side. (A 5/64 wrench will fit into the non threaded ball)
Now to the rear diff. I again build this one the same as the other two. But this one will need some special attention on the shimming. Another added upgrade to the 3.0 are the aluminum bearing inserts.
For shimming I added .34 mm to the ring gear side and .74mm to the other side.
Add 3 dabs of black greese and install into the gear box.
After the rear of the gearbox in installed and all 4 screws tightened you will want to re check the ring / pinion mesh. To do this I hold the completed gearbox with a finger on each outdrive. The with the other hand grab the input shaft and rock back and forth paying attention to how much input movement is required before the outdrives move. This should be a tight as possible with out binding. On a new set of gears there will usually be one high tight spot. Due to manufacturing tolerances and plastic curing at different rates I would recommend you start with the shimming I used but check and re-adjust as necessary. After a few tanks recheck to see if it has loosened up and re-shim if needed.
This is probably does not need any commentary but to install the lock nuts into the rear brace you can slide one over a 1/16 allen and push the nut into the plastic brace to ease the process. Other than that the shock tower install is pretty self explanitory.
Install the hubs with all the spacers in front of the hub to start with and install the hinge pin. I use red loctite on one side and blue on the other. This way one is locked on and one can be removed for wheelbase adjustments. the kit comes with the silver steel nuts but I am using Black aluminum TLR nuts where possible.
Install camberlinks with a small amount of blue loctite at each end
Bag D complete