Montaggio losi 3.0 by casey peck

[NIOREVO]

Notice the new matte finish on the stone guards.

have skipped to the F bag and will do shocks next.

On to the radio tray and linkage set up. Choose the non RTR hex insert for the aluminum post

Add blue loctite to both ends of the post and install the post into the tray with the included button head 5/40 screw. Don't forget the washer like I did

Now on to the aluminum servo brace, I add a dot of red loctite to each of the threaded holes. This is not a regular maintenance item so red is on the menu here. Depending upon your servo choice you may need the longer included 4/40 screws.
My Spektrum 6090's are fairly low profile and do not require more than the standard plastic spacer. (which is no more than the height of the aluminum brace) I like mine just high enough to clear the chassis even under any chassis flex. (notice there is roughly 3mm of post lower than the bottom of the servo, this is good clearance)
Servos contacting the chassis under high stress is a cause of servo death.
And since they are mounted way out on the chassis I prefer them to be mounted as low as possible. Any thing higher will add un-needed chassis roll.

If you so choose you can use the aluminum servo arm for the 22 buggy on the throttle. I always run mine like this it fits perfect on the 3.0 tray looks nice and does away with the servo inserts. I also like red loctite on the ball stud for the throttle linkage. Red will keep the stud in place without having to overtighten the ball stub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BALL STUD. I have broken more than one. That is a black 4/40 mini nut from AVID rc to match my black theme

I add a touch of CA to hold the servo leads out of the way of the driveshaft but is not necessary if you can get the leads to stay tucked up tight to the box. I also add a dot of it on the first lead to hold the second one. Also notice how much shorter the screws for the steering servo need to be.(servo closest to the center diff) If they are too long they will contact the center driveshaft




As you can see there is plenty of room for a rx and transponder in the radio box.

For the steel thread insert on in the battery box I like to add a dab of CA to keep in place until the battery is installed. While holding the box upside down I use the 5/64 allen to insert threaded t-nut into the box.

All that is left is the final linkage install. By putting extra preload on the throttle side you can hold it from the carb side to get the linkage post in place for the screw.

And on to the brake side

Make sure to center servos with the radio zero'd out and steering centered. Also make sure to set the throttle pivot arm so that the alignment marks on the tray line up with the alignment marks on the arm




And bag F complete

[NIOREVO]

Ecco quello che aspettavo di vedere da tempo!! Spettacolo!



On to the awesome new shocks.



pop the pivot balls into the shockend, shiney side first like the rest of the build



Don't skip this step..... Like I do with any set screw prepare the shock shaft piston screw for red loctite.
spray motor spray on a rag and thread each screw into the rag to remove the shipping oil from the treads.
Then take a dab of red loctite on your .050 allen and insert into each shock shaft.





Choose the split 4 hole 1.2 4 hole / 1.3 for the longer rear shafts and the 1.3 for the front shafts. I use those same flat jaw needle noose pliers to hold the shaft for piston installation.
!!!DONT FORGET THE SMALL WASHERS ON EACH SIDE OF THE PISTON LIKE I DID!!!







Install the outter oring for the lower shock cap and then the shock orings spacers like shown. Pay attention to the bottom spacer orientation. This one puts the correct amount of seal preload and centers in the shock cap





I prefer a dab of shock oil on the threads to install the shaft into the shock body



Unlike the shocks of the current 8 line up. The new heavy duty bladder gets installed into the cap first. A little too much motor spray on my hands





Since I needed both hands for the proper shock build I did not take any pics of these steps. Fill the shock body with the proper oil abour 3/4 full. Then slowly push the shaft up to the oil height (but not higher) to push the air bubbles out. Then fill to the top and add the shock cap. I like to hold the shock closer to horizontal and crack the cap open while pushing the shaft all the way up. Then tighten the shock with the kit included shock tools. Install the shock end holding the shaft just above the threads with your prefered shock pliers and screw them on all the way.
Now install the shock boots. A small spray of motor spray will ease the boot install. Now add springs and spring cup.
These things are buttery smooth. The new spacer and seal set / shaft material really keeps things operating smoothly and where they should be.





That same 1/4' nut driver that I use to set the diff orins in the diff case is perfect to drive the upper shock bushing onto the shock mount (which is now longer than the current ones) It fits right over the small end and against the larger diameter lip on the foreward side of the bushing.



When installing the shocks be sure to use the black reverse thread shock screw on the driver side rear and passenger side front. But don't forget that they are reverse. These do not need to be tightened more than just touching since they will not back there way out. Also pay attention to the slot in the spring cup. When installed correctly it will be facing out. This way the cup will hit the arm first if it gets knocked off by an bad impact.