Montaggio losi 3.0 by casey peck

[NIOREVO]

Here's a look at the goodies included in the kit and for the next step. New coated hinge pins that seem to be a spring steel type of metal as well as the ti king pins. I always ran the adjustable captured front hingepin braces so its nice that they are now included in the kit.



The new 15 deg plastic non inclined caster blocks and spindles are redisigned to maximize steering throw with more clearance for the wheel



On to the driveshafts these go together the same as all the others just pay attention to the legnth of axle pin. Don't get the diff pins confused for the axle pins. The axle pin will be just long enough to fit flush in the axle.

After installing the bearings into the spindle and the completed axle / driveshaft into the bearings add the wheel hex's. Then the large pin and the set screw. I like to spray motor spray on a rag and thread the set screw to remove any shipping oil. This will make the locktite stick better. Notice the junk that came off after on the rag. Do this to all hardware that needs loctite.





**A reminder to dab the loctite on to the set screw and twist it onto your finger to spread it evenly and get rid of excess

Now use your wheel wrench to hold the hex and install the set screw



finish the spindle / caster block assembly with the new kingpins. Don't forget to install the small set screws that hold the pins in

[NIOREVO]

On to the diff's. Cut an angle on the included TLR black grease tube. Twist the included light weight outdrive and add the black greese to the greese grove. I then twist it against my finger to remove any excess.

Now install the flanged diff bearing onto the diff case and the prepared outdrive. Once inserted add the small red o-ring to the outdrive shaft.

I like to use a 1/4" nut driver to drive the o-ring into the slot.

Now install the outdrive pin. I use an old pair of surgical hemostat's

Then drop the flat spider gear on to the pin / outdrive. Now add the small gears to the diff pins and add some diff oil to help hold them together.

This way you can pick the whole thing up without the gears falling off. (when they are clean and shiney they do not always want to stay together)

Now add the diff fluid since this is front one it is 5K

Here is the trick that I picked up from Yannik when he ran for us.
Add the flat spider gear to the assembly and the excess diff oil will rise to the top. You can then run a flat edge across the diff case top to remove the excess. This will make sure the diff is perfectly filled every time.



Now the gasket and ring gear. Use the same steps to installing the bearing and outdrive to the ring gear. Don't forget the greese on the ring gear.



Now its just 4 diff case screws and its complete.

[NIOREVO]

On to the gearbox / pinion gear install.

Since the 3.0 uses center dog bones the gearbox gets an outdrive instead of the standard cvd driveshaft. This builds just like the old stuff. Install the bearings indo the gearbox and insert the pinion gear. Hold the pinion gear in with presure as you add the out drive. Don't forget to prep the set screw just like we did in the previous steps(with the motorspray / rag and red loctite)

Next insert the completed front diff into the gearbox. I add three small dabs of black greese to the ring gear.

Notice the buttonhead 540 screw on the bottom of the gearbox. The kit comes with caphead 540 screws but I prefer to switch these out with the buttonhead so the same size wrench is used for all of the screws.

[Bestia]

Grandissimo Nio, montare la 3.0 sarà entusiasmante ma farlo attraverso Peck è roba di un altro pianeta!!! Appena arriva subito al lavoro!!!

[NIOREVO]

The new 3.0 arm is changed from the 2.0 in the way the droop screws work and are narrowed up on the back side to maximize steering throw and wheel clearance.

Notice the difference in the 2.0 arm when layed over the 3.0 arm

Add the shocktower and hingepin mounts. The kit calls for number 1 plastic inserts up in the front and number one inserts down in the rear. This is for max kick up. For a smoother flat track you might want to use the zeros that come in the extras portion of the kit.

All thats left for the front clip is the sway bar and turnbuckles.

My turnbuckle tricks should help the stress on your hands. I first pop the balls into each of the rod ends. Remember to pop them into the shiney side of the rod end first. (check back to the first few steps for the shiney step)

I always run my turnbuckles with the left handed thread to the inside. Which ever you decide just be cognizant of the mark on the turnbuckles so they all face the same way.
After the rod ends are prepared start the first one onto the turnbuckle a few threads and then use a 5/64 wrench to speed up the process.

Notice the extra adjustments on the tower. Gone are the 2 holes and pesky half moon adjustment inserts on the caster block which is now one single mounting hole. Also the 4mm turnbuckles and rod ends are replaced by the beefy 5mm that the 1.0 first came with.

Front clip and bag B complete

[NIOREVO]

Now on to the center diff. Here is a look at the upgrades and updated parts in the 3.0 kit. Notice the rear brake disk is turned down so there is no break-in process anymore with the disks. Also the kit now comes with those small brake pad springs to keep the pads from dragging when your brake gap gets larger than it should be

I build up the center diff the same as I build the other two diff's (see earlier steps for a reminder if needed) Notice the rear disk is turned down

I always set my brake gap between .40mm and .50 mm this one I set at .50. So measure the brake disk...

Then adjust each pad gap to that .50mm gap

The completed center diff assembly. You should be able to hold the diff case and spin each diff mount around the brake disk with out any dragging. I always check this before I mount it in to the car.

For the brake linkage I always run the brake rod in and out of the mounts to pre-brake them in. Otherwise brake bias adjustment will be a pain for quite some time.

Bag C complete

[NIOREVO]

The 3.0 uses a new droop screw system. This time it uses a large buttonhead screw that will resist digging into the aluminum chassis and changing the droop setting. It installins into the bottom side of the arm with a 3mm hex and then is adjustable from the top side (like previous models) with a 5/65 or 2mm hex driver. The arm has been modified to accept this large buttonhead.

Here is another one of the things I have come up with throughout the years. I like to drill through the wing mount and nut with a 1/16 drill bit. This allows you to use a longer screw and the extra plastic to thread into will help lock the bolt in.

Again the 3.0 brings back the 5mm turnbuckles and rod ends. Don't forget to pop the balls into the rod end shiney end first.

After starting the rod end onto the turnbuckle use the included camber wrench (or the TLR one) and a 1/16 allen for added leverage to thread the rod on the rest of the way do this for each side. (A 5/64 wrench will fit into the non threaded ball)

Now to the rear diff. I again build this one the same as the other two. But this one will need some special attention on the shimming. Another added upgrade to the 3.0 are the aluminum bearing inserts.

For shimming I added .34 mm to the ring gear side and .74mm to the other side.






Add 3 dabs of black greese and install into the gear box.

After the rear of the gearbox in installed and all 4 screws tightened you will want to re check the ring / pinion mesh. To do this I hold the completed gearbox with a finger on each outdrive. The with the other hand grab the input shaft and rock back and forth paying attention to how much input movement is required before the outdrives move. This should be a tight as possible with out binding. On a new set of gears there will usually be one high tight spot. Due to manufacturing tolerances and plastic curing at different rates I would recommend you start with the shimming I used but check and re-adjust as necessary. After a few tanks recheck to see if it has loosened up and re-shim if needed.

This is probably does not need any commentary but to install the lock nuts into the rear brace you can slide one over a 1/16 allen and push the nut into the plastic brace to ease the process. Other than that the shock tower install is pretty self explanitory.

Install the hubs with all the spacers in front of the hub to start with and install the hinge pin. I use red loctite on one side and blue on the other. This way one is locked on and one can be removed for wheelbase adjustments. the kit comes with the silver steel nuts but I am using Black aluminum TLR nuts where possible.

Install camberlinks with a small amount of blue loctite at each end

Bag D complete

[NIOREVO]

Notice the new matte finish on the stone guards.

have skipped to the F bag and will do shocks next.

On to the radio tray and linkage set up. Choose the non RTR hex insert for the aluminum post

Add blue loctite to both ends of the post and install the post into the tray with the included button head 5/40 screw. Don't forget the washer like I did

Now on to the aluminum servo brace, I add a dot of red loctite to each of the threaded holes. This is not a regular maintenance item so red is on the menu here. Depending upon your servo choice you may need the longer included 4/40 screws.
My Spektrum 6090's are fairly low profile and do not require more than the standard plastic spacer. (which is no more than the height of the aluminum brace) I like mine just high enough to clear the chassis even under any chassis flex. (notice there is roughly 3mm of post lower than the bottom of the servo, this is good clearance)
Servos contacting the chassis under high stress is a cause of servo death.
And since they are mounted way out on the chassis I prefer them to be mounted as low as possible. Any thing higher will add un-needed chassis roll.

If you so choose you can use the aluminum servo arm for the 22 buggy on the throttle. I always run mine like this it fits perfect on the 3.0 tray looks nice and does away with the servo inserts. I also like red loctite on the ball stud for the throttle linkage. Red will keep the stud in place without having to overtighten the ball stub. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BALL STUD. I have broken more than one. That is a black 4/40 mini nut from AVID rc to match my black theme

I add a touch of CA to hold the servo leads out of the way of the driveshaft but is not necessary if you can get the leads to stay tucked up tight to the box. I also add a dot of it on the first lead to hold the second one. Also notice how much shorter the screws for the steering servo need to be.(servo closest to the center diff) If they are too long they will contact the center driveshaft




As you can see there is plenty of room for a rx and transponder in the radio box.

For the steel thread insert on in the battery box I like to add a dab of CA to keep in place until the battery is installed. While holding the box upside down I use the 5/64 allen to insert threaded t-nut into the box.

All that is left is the final linkage install. By putting extra preload on the throttle side you can hold it from the carb side to get the linkage post in place for the screw.

And on to the brake side

Make sure to center servos with the radio zero'd out and steering centered. Also make sure to set the throttle pivot arm so that the alignment marks on the tray line up with the alignment marks on the arm




And bag F complete